Dec 2, 2010

Name My 100th Heart - Final Vote!

I know I said that I would only pick my Top 5, but there were just so many wonderful names that you guys chose. I narrowed it down to my Top 10 favourites. Vote for your favourite! Voting will end on December 6th, so that gives you the entire weekend to think of your favourite. After voting is completed, we'll narrow it down to the Top 5... and there will be another vote.

I will leave these names as is, and will not include the person who suggested it. So no playing favourites here, of course. :)

These names are in no particular order.

TOP 10 - Voting Ends December 6th.










100 BPM

FINAL TOP 5 - Voting Ends December 13th.




100 BPM


WINNER - Chosen December 13th.


Congratulations to Witchling-Ashara on DeviantArt!

Thanks so much to all who entered - you guys are awesome and oh-so creative. It was really hard choosing. I may use your suggested heart names in the future for other hearts, so I will give you credit for the name!


Nov 22, 2010

Name My 100th Heart!

Well - it's finally here! Monster Kookies has finally approached the 100th milestone in the Industrial Heart Collection, and your help is needed to name this creation!

As opposed to picking apart your minds for ideas, this piece is entirely from the brain of Monster Kookies. It's colours range from brass and bronze to golds and silvers in different areas of the heart. It is highly Industrial inspired, and features many little gears, knobs, and various findings, as well as tubing, coils, and wire.

This heart represents a very special milestone, and so it has to be a very special and meaningful name. And that's where your creative minds come in to play!

From November 23rd until November 30th, you can have a chance to win a very special prize - anything in the Monster Kookies Etsy Shop under $40.00 (not including shipping)!

How can you enter this contest? Simple. All you have to do is come up with an awesome name for this heart. The Top 5 names will be chosen by myself and I will leave it up to a public vote to see which name wins! You have until November 30th to enter, and you can enter as many times as you like!

Please make sure to leave a way to get in touch with you (if you happen to win) such as an e-mail or a DeviantArt/Etsy/Facebook/Blogspot username, otherwise your entry will not be counted.

Good luck!

Nov 11, 2010

Sticky Soft Clay

When I am working with polymer clay, I don't generally have a lot of problems with my clay being too soft. When I first started playing with it, though, I often used Sculpey III which is definitely good for beginners, but my goodness is it soft. After a few years, I moved on to a firmer clay - Premo. Premo certainly isn't as hard as Kato or Fimo Classic, but it is more firm that Sculpey III and Fimo Soft.

But I sometimes find that Premo can be soft, as well, and it makes it very difficult to work on three dimensional objects that require a lot of detail and layering. As you work on one side and hold onto the other, details tend to get squished... and the overall piece just looks dreadful.

So when does Premo seem the softest? Well, when it's super fresh, that's for sure.

I just opened a brand new 1lb package of Silver Premo this morning, and the softness was the equivilent to Sculpey III. And after kneading it, it was just a mess. When you're having this many problems with a newly bought package of Premo, it is almost always because it is fresh, fresh, fresh.

How can you avoid this, exactly?

You've got many options, actually. If you use a lot of polymer clay, it is a good habit to keep track of how many un-opened colours you have, how many open colours you have, as well as which colours you use the most of. After awhile, you start to get the knack of it, but sometimes it helps to write it down. If you can practice this habit, you'll never run out of clay. Why? Because you know exactly how much of what colour you have, and you can go out and grab some more of the colour you'll need far before you'll actually need to use it. Call it Polymer Clay Forecasting, if you will.

So how does this Polymer Clay Forecasting come in handy? By purchasing your clay ahead of time, you can "age" it for as long as you need. I find that leaving packages of polymer clay in a cool dark place for a month or two is sufficient enough to really make the clay less soft - so I always make sure to buy ahead of time.

Heat can be a factor as well, so your clay may be softer in the Summer months. If you can, try purchasing your clay in the cooler months, and if you have hot hands, try keeping them cool by dipping them in cool water once in awhile or by holding an icepack for a minute. Try to keep a cool work surface. I purchased a marble/granite slab at the kitchen store on sale, and it keeps a nice temperature all year round. If your work surface is too warm, try sticking it in the freezer when you aren't using it or by sticking a cold gel back beneath it as you work on the surface.

But if you're in a pinch, and you don't know what else to do, this is where Leaching comes in handy. If I have a big pack of really soft Premo, and I have none of that colour left in other packages, then I will leach the entire package of clay.

What is leaching, exactly? Well, it's a process in which you can remove some of the plasticizers, which make the clay soft, from the clay. This can be done with a white piece of paper and a pasta machine.

First, take your soft piece of clay and form it into a flat mass. Take a piece of white paper (just so you don't get any ink colour onto your clay) and fold it in half like a card. Between the two halves, place the clay inside, and then fold it closed again. Put it through your pasta machine at the thickest setting, and then go to the next smallest setting. Keep doing this until the clay is about 1mm thick - either setting #4 or #5. Now you've got yourself a clay-paper sandwich!

Take the clay-paper sandwich and put it on top of a hard cover book. And then pile a bunch of heavy books on top. Alternatively, you could sandwich the paper between two books and just sit on it if you like. In about 10-15 minutes, remove the books and grab the clay-paper sandwich. Peel the paper from the clay - you'll notice a weird oily residue on the paper, kind of like grease. This is the plasticizers!

Upon kneading the clay in your hands, you'll notice that it is a lot more firm. But if it isn't to your liking, though, you could always leave the clay between the white paper for a little bit longer. But just remember - too much leaching can lead to very crumbly clay, and you'll notice that it is a lot more fragile after baking. I've never had to leach my Premo for more than 20 minutes, and it's been a good bet so far. Some folks leave it overnight, or for several hours. You'll have to experiment to see what works for you!

If the clay sticks to the white paper, you can easily scrape it off with a razorblade. If you do not have white paper, try using a brown paper bag or cerealbox cardboard - as long as it has no print or ink on it, it will work fine.

Have any findings on this topic? Let me (and everyone else who is reading) know by leaving a comment. :) Happy claying!

Oct 13, 2010

Morrrrre Tentacles

Well, if you've been following Monster Kookies over the years, you'd know that I seem to have a thing for tentacles. And no matter how many tentacles I make, I am always being told to make more, more, MORE. And I certainly don't mind.

This cute lil' curly tentacle transitions from a pearly violent into a pearly white and features teeny bright green suckers with lime green insides. Have you been able to tell that I also have a thing for lime green and bright purple? Yeeeeeah.

I'll be listing this lil' thing in my Etsy Shop, tomorrow. In fact, I have two of them - each is slightly different. Both are a pendant that will feature a ring in the top that will be strung through a chain.

I want to make some rainbow tentacles!!!

Sep 13, 2010

Dia De Los Muertos Festivities

When the Autumn leaves begin to fall, I just get so darn excited and happy. It's just such a beautiful time of year, and that also means that Hallowe'en is just around the bend. Of course Hallowe'en isn't as fun as it used to be - I can't go out and trick or treat, but there are other things to look forward to, as well.

Dia De Los Muertos is definitely one of the things I look forward to. I don't have many people to celebrate it with, but I know a lot of people far away who do celebrate to the fullest extent, and it's always so wonderful to hear about the festivities. I think it's wonderful.

Dia De Los Muertos, or Day of The Dead, as bleek as the name may sound, is actually a very uplifting time of year. On November 1st and 2nd, folks gather in cemetaries and decorate the graves of their passed love ones. They light candles, sing, pray, and offer the deceased things like Pan De Los Muertos (Bread of the Dead) and create sugar skulls in their honour.

I definitely want to make some Pan De Los Muertos, this year. It's a lovely bread spiked with anise and orange - it sounds divine! Of course, I also create sugar skulls, but not from sugar... from polymer clay!

I've already made two sugar skulls - one of them is black and white, and one of them is in colour as well as bold black. I made them from a white-translucent-pearl mix and then hand painted them with acrylic paint. I finished their eyes off with rhinestones, too! I feel like I am back in grade school, because I just stocked up on things I haven't used before like rhinestones, glitter, dimensional fabric paint, and sequins. It's a really fun mix!

I plan on making more, though, just in different styles. I want to make one that is a wrought iron in colour with rust, as well as one with polymer clay details as opposed to paint to make it look like it's been piped with royal icing, as well as an Industrial one.

The next sugar skull I plan on making, though, is going to be named "The Devils Eye" and have the tattoo-inspired blue gems in their eyes. I haven't thought of much more yet, but it will definitely be inspired by the general look of Dia De Los Muertos tattoos and their vibrant colours with bold outlines.

I've done a lot of new stuff, lately!

Sep 1, 2010

Steampunk Arthropods? Oh yes.

I made a decision to stop taking custom orders for Industrial Hearts, and I think it's the best decision I have made in a long time. It's going to give me a lot more time to think of new and exciting things, such as this lovely beetle brooch I made, last night. Here is a quote from my Etsy Shop:

"If you're looking for a lovely brooch as the focal point to those ivory white victorian ruffles, it's easy to finish it off with that brooch your grandmother gave you featuring a lady silhouette and bordered by gold, but why not go a different route?

This beautiful beetle resembles the egyptian scarab beetle but also takes inspiration from the japanese beetle and cicada. It's back is striped with rich gold, green emerald, and glimmering black. It features rivets, a single rust toned gear and few teeny tiny rusty gears holding the shell to it's back. It has been carefully textured in places, antiqued with black, and glazed with a satin sheen.

Brass antenae and six delicate legs finish off the entire piece.

This piece will definitely gain curious looks from envious onlookers, and makes a delightful focal point on ivory/cream coloured victorian ruffles or velvet collar."

It can be bought here:

Golden Emerald Beetle Brooch - Steampunk Arthropod - Specimen No.1

I am definitely going to be making more!

Aug 30, 2010

FanExpo 2010 = Good Times!

Monster Kookies had an awesome time at FanExpo 2010, this weekend! It was a fantastic event and there were so many awesome people there. :) I finally got to meet Sarah Norton of Beat Black and I also got to meet Daniel Proulx of Catherinette Rings - Daniel even bought one of my Industrial Hearts!

I bought a lovely ring from Catherinette Rings, and I also bought a creepy little Eyeball Plant from Ghoul Friday.

As for how successful Monster Kookies was, I'd say we did plenty well for ourselves. I had Jason, my partner in crime, with me. We sold out of many things, and only had a bit of stuff left by the end of the weekend. Surprisingly enough, it was more of the Monster Kookies higher priced items that sold out as opposed to the lower priced items - I was very sad (but also happy) to see all of my birdies and hearts go so fast. It was very rewarding for sure, and I can't wait to go back for a third year in 2011!

Aug 14, 2010

Tips For Mixing With TLS

I know that using TLS (Translucent Liquid Sculpey) for the first time can be a little daunting for polymer clay beginners, which is why I wrote "Liquid Clay 101" some time ago. But I thought I would go into detail about the mixing process to make things a little less daunting. :)

I have compiled a small list of 5 random tips for mixing TLS.

  • If you are mixing a small amount of polymer clay with your TLS for things like frosting/icing, make sure that the piece of clay you are trying to blend is as warm and soft as possible. This is where softer brands of clay like Sculpey III or Fimo Soft are especially useful. I don't normally use these brands when it comes to regular sculpting, but they definitely blend well with TLS.

  • Adding a small amount of oil paint in the same colour as your icing choice is a good idea when creating icing/frosting with polymer clay and TLS. This further opaques the colour and really makes it vivid.

  • Don't over-do it on the oil paint. If you use too much oil paint in your TLS, you'll really be able to smell the oil paint. There should just be a hint of the smell. You'll discover after you've baked your piece if you've used too much, especially when you glaze it. If you use too much oil paint to colour your TLS, you'll notice that after you glaze the piece that the glaze will cloud over and become sticky... and a very strong smell of oil paint will be apparent.

  • If I could give you any ratio at all for creating frosting/icings and opaque sauces, I would say the following for oil paint:

    • Frosting/Icing: 1/4 of a quarter bar of Polymer Clay (preferably Sculpey III), roughly 2 fluid ounces of TLS, and just a pea size amount of Oil Paint in a matching hue.
    • Sauces: roughly 2 fluid ounces of TLS, and a pea size amount of Oil Paint in the sauce colour of your choice.

  • When creating clear sauces like maple syrup or strawberry sauce, Fimo Decorating Gel is the best way to go - it's like the TLS of the Fimo world. It's a lot more clear and transparent than TLS is, as TLS is much more white and cloudy, which is why TLS is great for sauces in which opaqueness doesn't matter - such as chocolate sauce. Since Fimo Decorating Gel is a lot more expensive than TLS and comes in smaller portions, try only using it when you need translucency in your mixture. If you wish to keep your mixture translucent but want it coloured, use shaved soft chalk pastels.

    Often times, people will have trouble getting the soft chalk pastel shavings to mix with the Fimo Decorating Gel. Even in the final mixture, there are often small particles and specks of the chalk pastel. To avoid this, do not mix the chalk pastel shavings directly with a large amount of Fimo Decorating Gel. I'll further explain this:

    Take a nail file and rub the chalk pastel across it to get some very fine chalk pastel particles. Do this on your work surface, such as glass, ceramic, or marble. When you have the desired amount of chalk pastel particles, add just a few drops of Fimo Decorating Gel. Take a toothpick and vigorously mix it into a paste. Add a few more drops of Fimo Decorating Gel, and mix again. You can do this a few more times if you like.

    Now that you have a paste of the Chalk Pastel and Fimo Decorating Gel, you can scoop the concentrated paste into a tiny baggy or container and add as much Fimo Decorating Gel as you please to make your desired mixture. If there are any particles left, leaving it over night usually does the trick... just give the mixture a good stir or massage the baggy of the mixture the day after, and the particles should all be desolved.

Hopefully this will help you all in your claying endeavors! If there is anything you would like to know, let me know in the comments section and I will try to write a blog entry about it.

Happy Claying!

Jul 17, 2010

Mmm... Onions!

You know, when I was a kid I used to get into a lot of trouble when it came to putting my hands in the mixed pickle jar. I used to fish for all the pickled onions because they were my favourite part! Those lil' pearly white onions all succulent and sweet n' sour. Mmm.

A lady asked me to make her a cute lil' white pearl onion charm the other day, and this is what the result was.

I got to use a new clay layering technique for the subtle pink striping with the translucent white of the base. Instead of using acrylics, I though it would be fun doing something a little different. It's got three lil' grass green sprouts coming out the top and I used some tan knotted embroidery thread for some roots. I think I am happy with the result! :)

Jul 2, 2010

Kookie's Take On Rainbow Cake

I got so excited about rainbow cake in my last entry, that I just had to give it a try for myself. I ended up doing six layers of cake: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, and purple. I then slathered on some fluffy white frosting, and generously sprinkled it with rainbow sprinkles and little crystal marble beads.

Yes, the rainbow sprinkles were all rolled by hand and nooo it isn't edible - it's all clay!

By the way, I am holding a Summer Promotion right now in my Etsy Shop! From June 25th until July 25th, anyone who buys something in my shop will be entered in a draw to win a Monster Kookies $25.00 Gift Certificate. So get on over there and grab a little somethin' somethin', because now is the best time! :) Oh yeah, and that rainbow cake is in my shop, too.

Jun 17, 2010

Polymer Clay Trends: The Rainbow Cake Slice

If you're wondering what all the rage is in the polymer clay world at the moment, one of the best places to check is all the arts and crafts sites to see exactly what is being submitted. This month, there has been something in particular that a lot of polymer clay artists and dabblers have been fixated on - the rainbow cake slice.

Cake slices have always been a very popular item to create, but lately rainbow has been all the rage!

So how do you accomplish a rainbow cake slice, exactly? Well. The process itse l f is a ctually pretty simple, but it is also rather time consuming. So if you have the patience and the time, making these dainty little things is certainly a labour of love.

You start with about 7 colours colours of clay all rolled out and flat - about 2-3mm thick. You can use any amount of colours that you want, but it's typical to use Red, Yellow, Pink, Green, Purple, Orange, & Blue. Cut them all into circles using a cookie cutter and then slice the circles 3 or 4 times through the middle to get the amount of cake layers that you want. Depending on how many times you cut, this will determine how many cake slices you can make. Three cuts will get you 6 slices of cake, whereas four cuts will get you 8 slices of cake.

Next, you will want to create the crumbly cake texture on the two long sides of the cake layers, because the round part at the back is generally covered in icing. This texture can be accomplished by a toothpick or pin by gently grabbing and pulling and swirling at the clay until you get the desired effect. Some people just leave it untouched with texture, but you can also use things like toothbrush bristles or sandpaper to make it more easy.

Of course you will want to make an icing as well. This is just a mixture of a tiny bit of kneaded clay and a bunch of liquid clay. Put it all into a cup or onto a tile and just mash and stir until it is smooth and is the thickness of icing. If it's too thin, add more kneaded clay and re-mix... if it's too thick, add more liquid clay.

As you can see from the photos, some people don't use any icing between the cake layers, and some even use solid clay for the layers of icing - it is entirely up to you! But you can use the icing to squeeze onto the top, and you can even use cake decorating tips and piping bags with the icing to get some lovely border effects. Your clay extruder can also be used for some cute border effects.

You can choose to leave it as is, or you can add things like eyepins to make them into charms or even add Rare Earth Magnets to the bottom for some awesome fridge magnets or locker magnets! You can also add little extras like tiny clay flowers, tiny clay cherries, sprinkles, glitter, drizzle, or other little garnishes. A great way to get some inspiration is to look through old cookbooks and google image search.

So, out of all the rainbow cakes you see - which is your favourite?

1. mynameisjade @
2. mothermayijewelry @
3. seaofcreations @
4. bloodcross @

Jun 14, 2010

Being Nice To Your Hands

If you've worked with polymer clay before, you'll know that it can wreak havoc on your fingers and hands. What with all that dirt, grime, grease, and residue, I am quite sure that you could use a little treat for your digits once in awhile. After all, your hands and fingers are your most prized posessions! Without them, sculpting would be quite difficult. So learn to take care of them, and they'll take care of you... and your clay!

Below, I have listed some awesome all-natural scrubs for your hands. They are gentle enough to use them everytime you are finished claying, too, and they can even be used for your whole body. These can be made for under $10.00 worth of ingredients, and both have been personally tested by me. They both work great!

Brown Sugar & Oatmeal Scrub
3/4 cup Brown Sugar
1/2 cup Oatmeal (not instant)
1/4 cup Honey
3/4 cup Sweet Almond Oil (or your favourite Oil)

Mix the brown sugar and oatmeal together in a bowl. Drizzle in the honey, mix, and then add the oil a little at a time. Use enough oil in the scrub that the sugar and oatmeal is saturated but there isn't a large pool of oil left. Then spoon the mixture into a Mason Jar and keep beside your sink.

Sugar & Salt Scrub
1 cup Coarse Sugar
3/4 cup Honey
1 cup Sea Salt
3 mL Sweet Almond Oil (or your favourite Oil)
3 mL Fragrance Oil (Orange & Ylang-Ylang are a good combo)

Mix first three ingredients in a bowl and slowly add in the oils. Use enough oil in the scrub that the sugar and salt are saturated but there isn't a large pool of oil left. Then spoon the mixture into a Mason Jar and keep beside your sink.

Apr 18, 2010

Extruding Fun!

Two posts ago, I promised you a little something on clay guns. If you were born in the era of Playdough like I was, you'll probably remember those funky little plastic things with all the holes in them. You'd take a mound of the dough and push it through these holes and you would automatically have things like spaghetti and crazy Playdough hair. Clay guns and extruders follow the same principals.

There are a wide range of clay extruders and guns on the market, today. The most common one is a three piece gun plus shape discs by Sculpey. It has a barrel, a screw-on end cap to hold the shape discs, and a plunger to push the clay through. The discs come with cut-out shapes such as swuares, diamonds, triangles, circles, stars, etc. The Sculpey Clay Gun is very cheap - you can usually find one for about $7.00.

Overall, this clay gun is pretty sturdy for what it's worth. It's all metal, which is an added advantage when it comes to all the pushing you'll have to do on it. The downside is that the plunger needs to be pushed, and after awhile it really takes its toll on your hands, that's for sure. You can make things a little easier if you knead and condition your clay really well before putting it in the barrel, but the firmer brands of clay can be a lot harder to push through even if they are well kneaded. Sculpey III is one of the more softer brands of clay, so it is rather easy to tell that this gun was built for use with Sculpey III, hence the producer of this particular clay gun.

Another downside is that it can be a pain to clean. To clean, what I usually do is push any reminants of clay that are stuck to the insides of the barrel with one of my blunt clay tools. Then I get a piece of paper towel, spray it with rubbing alcohol, and wipe the insides of the barrel using my fingers. I've got long skinny fingers, so it definitely aids in this tedious process. Then I just wipe down the plunger, discs, and end cap with paper towel and a spray of rubbing alcohol.

But to be honest, I'd rather do away with all the hassle of the Sculpey clay gun and upgrade to something a little better. The best clay gun I have found is the Makin's Professional Ultimate Clay Extruder, which makes up where the Sculpey model falls short.

Not only is the Makins's Clay Extruder all metal, it is also a lot easier to clean and a lot easier to use. Instead of a plunger that you push, this plunger actually twists like a screw, which is a lot easier on the hands and provides a lot more strength and leverage even when the clay is firm. An added bonus is the fact that the plunger comes with a rubber 'O' Ring on the end so that the barrel of the extruder stays nice and clean. To clean, all of the parts just need a quick wipedown with paper towel and rubbing alcohol. The price is a steal, as well - only $20-$25 depending on where you get it.

You can buy extra discs for the Makin's model, as well... and there is a disc that allows for the shapes to be hollow so that you may use them as beads. If you're a beadmaker, this is definitely very handy.

When I had my Sculpey clay extruder, there were a few discs that I really liked that I couldn't get with the Makin's clay extruder in the same size, so what I did was take a hammer and gently flatten the lip on the sides of the Sculpey discs and now I can use them with my Makin's extruder. If your clay is extra firm, it'll be a good idea to back up a Sculpey disc with a Makin's disc that has a shape that is slightly bigger so that the pressure is put on the Makin's disc, passes through it, and then passes through the Sculpey disc with ease. This makes a lot of difference because the Sculpey discs are rather thin and can easily bend with too much pressure when they are in the larger Makin's clay extruder.

If you don't have any art supply stores nearby, you can buy the Makin's clay extruder online at The Clay Store.

In addition to clay extruders such as these, there are many other tools that you can use that can be easier to find. Many clay artists find that for fine round strands of clay (for hair, pasta, yarn, etc.) can be easily obtained by using a garlic press - and they tend to be very easy to clean, as well.

One of my personal favourites is cake decorating bags and tips. If you soften your clay down to the point where it is the texture of a pliable icing or frosting, you can use it just like you do to decorate a cake. To get your clay down to a smooth consistency, it is best to knead the clay until it is extremely soft and then put it on a clean work surface - add a small amount of liquid clay and then mash the mixture together until it is nice and smooth. I like to use the handle of a spoon for this part. You can pipe designs directly onto the clay you want to decorate, or you can pipe designs onto a ceramic tile, bake them until firm, let them cool, and then store for future use for all your decorating needs.

Is there anything you want to hear about in my next blog entry? I am always taking suggestions! :)

Mar 30, 2010

Polymer Clay Finishing Kit

Hooray! The long awaited Polymer Clay Finishing Kit is finally here.

So what exactly IS the Polymer Clay Finishing Kit? Well, basically it's a small kit that I have compiled that will help beginner and average polymer clay users improve the quality of their work by means of cleanliness and the sanding, buffing, and polishing process. Small details like cleanliness and these finishing techniques can significantly up the value of your work and refine your work habits, as well.

What will you find in this kit?
  • Two (2) bars of "Lady Fingers" soap
  • Four (4) sheets each of 400, 600, 800, 1000, and 1200 Wet/Dry Sandpaper
  • One (1) buffing cloth
  • One (1) polishing cloth
  • One (1) instruction booklet
The "Lady Fingers" soap included in this kit was a special formula compiled by Heather of Beautiful Soaps ( and I for the use of Polymer Clay artists. It is completely all-natural and is useful for those of us with "polymer palm". It contains apricot seeds and pumice which gently exfoliate the hands, thus removing any dead skin that can get onto your clay as well as any dirt or residue left on your hands after you are finished claying. It contains a vast array of citrus essential oils for cutting through that grime left on your hands and aloe vera to soften your hands and fingers after you've worked them to the bone.

"Lady Fingers" Soap Ingredients:
*Olive Coconut Palm Soybean Oils
*Apricot Seeds
*Ground Pumice
*Essential and Fragrance Oils
*Aloe Vera
*Sodium Hydroxide

The wet/dry sandpaper is of the upmost quality, and you will receive four 4 1/2" x 5 1/2" sheets of each grit - 400, 600, 800, 1000, and 1200. The buffing cloth is made from canvas, and the polishing cloth is 100% cotton and washable. :)

I put together a cute little 12 page booklet called, "The Lil' Monster Kookies Booklet of Polymer Clay Enlightment", which gives 15 tips on bettering your polymer clay workspace and work habits, a concise guide on how to sand, buff and polish your polymer clay, as well as a small list I compiled of my favourite online polymer clay suppliers. If requested, I can also include the e-book version of this booklet along with your order - just let me know the e-mail in which to send it to.

If you don't have the means or sources of gathering together the necessary supplies you need to sand, buff and polish your clay, or perhaps you don't know where to start, this is a great little kit that will get you started and well aquainted with the entire process. Many people I have spoken to that use this process say that their clay creations look 100% better and that they get a lot more value out of their pieces.

You can grab the kit here: Polymer Clay Finishing Kit

There are only six kits left!!!